Fashion and the semiotics of gender

  • Iva Jestratijević
Keywords:
gender, text, sign, semiotics, cross-dressing, unisex, transgender, postcolonialism

Abstract

Contemporary studies of fashion interpret articles of clothing as text, through which a specific cultural identity is constructed and expressed. As identities are momentarily realized through the performative act of identifying with a real or ideal subject, fashion has a special significance in every visual creation of a subject as the identity of a given role. In accordance with this, the dressing of the body is viewed as one of the available means of gender identification, as well as a way to confirm the subject through the performing of the assigned role of man and woman. Seeing as the performance of a certain role, in this specific case, entails the existence of the subject as event (of a textual) role, the sphere of clothing fashion is in this paper primarily connected to the sphere of representing the subject as member of a gender category. Clothing is viewed as one in a slew of instruments of gender naturalization, in the sense of the power which clothing has for upholding, performing and displaying the stability of gender norms. Hence, this paper will consider always current issues of the existence of established boundaries of male and female fashion, male and female clothing ornaments and colors, as well as socially acceptable male and female forms of clothing.

Downloads

Download data is not yet available.

References

Barnard, Malcolm. 2007. Fashion as communication. NY – London: Routledge.
Barthes, Roland. 1983. The fashion system. Los Angeles: Univesity of California press.
Bodrijar, Žan. 2002. „Moda. Čarolija koda“. U Moda. Povijest, sociologija, teorije mode, ur. Durđa Bartlett, Mirna Cvitan Černelić i Ante Tonči Vladislavić, 191-204. Zagreb: Školska knjiga.
de Bovoar, Simon. 1982. Drugi pol. Beograd: BIGZ.
Butazzi, Grazietta. 2002. „Moda, umjetnost, povijest, društvo“. U Moda. Povijest, sociologija i teorija mode, ur. Durđa Bartlett, Mirna Cvitan Černelić i Ante Tonči Vladislavić, 51-65. Zagreb: Školska knjiga.
Crane, Diana. 2000. Fashion and its social agendas. Class, gender and identity in clothing. Chicago – London: University of Chicago press.
Davis, Fred. 1992. Fashion, culture and identity. Chicago – London: University of Chicago Press.
Eco, Umberto. 1978. A theory of semiotics. Bloomington: Indiana University Press.
Fisk, Džon. 2001. Popularna kultura. Beograd: Clio.
Flugel, J. C. 1929. On the mental attitude to present day clothes. British Journal of Medical psihology 9: 34-46.
Hebdidž, Dik 1980. Potkultura: značenje stila. Beograd: Pečat.
Higgins- Roach Mary Ellen, Joanne Eicher, Kim Johnson. 1995. Dress and Identity. New York: Fairchild Publications.
Hollander, Ann. 1994. Sex and suits. The evolution of modern dress. NY: Alfred A. Knopf.
Jestratijević, Iva. 2011. Studija mode: znaci i značenja odevne prakse. Beograd: Orion Art.
Koda, Harold. 2001. Extreme beauty. The body transformed. NY: Metropolitan Museum of Art.
Lipovecki, Žil. 1992. Carstvo prolaznog: moda i njena sudbina u modernim društvima. Sremski Karlovci: Knjižarnica Zoran Stojanović.
McRobbie, Angela. 1988. Zoot suits and second-hand dresses: an anthology of fashion and music. Boston: Unwin Hyman.
Mrščević, Zorica. 1999. Rečnik osnovnih feminističkih pojmova. Beograd: Žarko Albulj.
Paić, Žarko. 2007. Vrtoglavica u modi: prema vizualnoj semiotici tijela. Zagreb: Altagama.
Polhemus, Ted, Lynn Procter. 1978. Fashion and Anti Fashion. London: Thames and Hudson.
Sullivan, James. 2006. Jeans – a cultural history of an American icon. NY: Gotham Books.
Šuvaković, Miško. 2005. Pojmovnik suvremene umjetnosti. Zagreb: Horetzky.
Vasić, Pavle. 1929. Odelo i oružje. Beograd: Umetnička akademija.
Vujačić, Lidija. 2008. Kultura odijevanja kao oblik komunikacije. Podgorica: Pobjeda.
Published
2015-12-15
How to Cite
Jestratijević, Iva. 2015. “Fashion and the Semiotics of Gender”. Issues in Ethnology and Anthropology 10 (4), 839–856. https://doi.org/https://doi.org/10.21301/eap.v10i4.3.